Paraplane

[Peter in Wisconsin]

I own a Paraplane PM-2. I was hoping to meet other PM-2 owners here to swap tales and advice. It would be nice if the Paraplane was listed as a forum category.

I bought a 1989 Paraplane PM2. I have no manual or paperwork of any sort. If you have a line on a manual I could sure use one. I also own a SR1 Six Chuter which I used to get my training. I just completed training and supervised solos and need 20 more takeoff and landings to qualify for Sport Pilot when and if.

Hi, you have a neat little plane. You can find manuals on ebay often. I owned a 89 PM2 also, my first PPC, put 57 hours of pure happy on it. I believe it had 23 hours when I got it. They are kinda mechanical, as in you need to be able to keep up with what's going on. The carbs have caused more grief than anything else I believe. You should adjust them before each and every flight if you want the engines to put out their max and not sieze. This isn't hard to do, but many people find it confusing. You need a manual. Basically, you turn out your jets about 1/2 turn from where they were the last time you flew, CCW, then you warm her up for a couple of minutes at mid rpm, then go to full power. Here is what's critical. You lean out the fuel mix by turning in CW the jet screw until the engine peaks rpm. You can not let it stay here but a moment. As you are smoothly turning in the adjustment screw, you will see the rpm peak and then start to drop. In your mind record the peak that just pasted, and IMMEDIATELY turn the screw out exactly one turn, CCW. I can't stress IMMEDIATELY enough. More than a couple of seconds will fry your engine. Then when it stablizes after about 10 seconds, lean it out by turning the screw in CW until a rpm is reached that is 300 below what it peaked at. If you don't understand this, don't even start your engines. Do one at a time, and all will be well. As your altitude increases, the mixture will get richer, so all is well. The max rpm for these Solo engines is 7000 or 7200 if I remember right, so if your peak is above 7500, you probably need new drive pulleys and belts. As they wear, the ratio changes, and your rpm will go up. Also your climb rate will go down. I know guys with hundreds of hours on these Solos, one with over 400, so if you can tune them like this, they will hold up fine. If not you will be repairing them all the time. Good luck, you will enjoy the PM2. I don't think anything could fly better. Woody in Georgia. ps, I remember I weighed about 180 at the time and did ok with the HiPro chute, tuned exhaust, wider prop blades. If you have the standard chute, etc. you need to be lightweight.

Hi Woody, Thanks for the encouragment and advice. I wonder if another type carb might work better? I'll check e-bay.
Thanks, Bob

Woody -

I also own an '89 PM-2. I agree completely on your carb
reply. Have you ever heard of a throttle synchronizer for the solo? There was mention to one in my manual - but no one seems to carry them. My engines run top notch -
I spend alot of time tuning before flying to make sure they
are perfect before take-off. -but lately they seemed to be dropping out of sync in flight. Cruise speed seems balanced - but full throttle isn't quite there except during
takeoff. I start to notice the change about 15-20 minutes into flight. Any suggestions?
Thanks - Erik

Hi Woody,
I was told, the expert on these machines is Rockin John. He flies them still. He can be contacted at;
AskRockinJohn@msn.com
He will know the answers.
Bob

[Peter in Wisconsin]

Originally Posted by rsyverts

I bought a 1989 Paraplane PM2. I have no manual or paperwork of any sort. If you have a line on a manual I could sure use one. I also own a SR1 Six Chuter which I used to get my training. I just completed training and supervised solos and need 20 more takeoff and landings to qualify for Sport Pilot when and if.

You can learn a lot about the Walbro carb from the Walbro website. You can actually download the manual which has a nice diagram of how it works. The Parachute Bible has an excellent description of how a carburator works. The author actually describes how to build one as a tool for explaining the function of each component of the carb.

Thanks for the tip on Walbro!

[Peter in Wisconsin]

Walbro Carb---
I have a Walbro WB22A on my PM-2 manufactured in 10/89. The model number is embossed on the side of the Walbro carb, in case you're wondering what you have. In cleaning my carb, I found that the vacuum ports tended to get gummed up with residue. I used a dental pick and carb cleaner to clear the port. I knew it was clear when I could blow through the port without restriction.

Of course you'll want to replace all the rubber gaskets and seals in each carb. If you have the WB22A, the right gasket set is part #D10-WB. Reikins Racing sells it for $3.92 each (you'll need 2...but buy 4 so you have a spare.) You'll also want to buy 2 of the K10-WB. This is a full rebuild kit for the WB22A. It includes everything that's in the D10-WB plus some other wear parts. Keep one on the shelf for safe-keeping. It costs $7.04. Can't beat the prices! Call 'em at 319 373-2018.

I have a file I downloaded from somewhere that describes the cleaning procedure. Let me know if this is of interest and I can forward or post.

That's really good data, thanks. Yes I would like the cleaning procedure info. My e-mail is rsyverts@yahoo.com.
Thanks, Bob

[Peter in Wisconsin]

Originally Posted by Erik

Woody -

I also own an '89 PM-2. I agree completely on your carb
reply. Have you ever heard of a throttle synchronizer for the solo? There was mention to one in my manual - but no one seems to carry them. My engines run top notch -
I spend alot of time tuning before flying to make sure they
are perfect before take-off. -but lately they seemed to be dropping out of sync in flight. Cruise speed seems balanced - but full throttle isn't quite there except during
takeoff. I start to notice the change about 15-20 minutes into flight. Any suggestions?
Thanks - Erik

Fig. 1-1B from the ParaPlane manual shows the throttle synchronizer. Compare this drawing with 1-1A that doesn't have the throttle synchronizer. The synchronizer simply allows fine tuning of each engine's throttle so their rpm is the same during flight.

When was the last time you cleaned your carb and replaced gaskets? When was the last time you replace the o-ring on the top of the carb? This o-ring doesn't come in the standard carb kit.

I have a 1991 PM-2 and the manual says that there should be bungies on the rear landing gear. I just have pins that lock them solid. It says that it is for a cross wind landing to prevent tipping...any thoughts?

I also have the HI pro chute but the risers are set up like the standand. That how it came and it flys great. Any one else running the samething?

Lastly, Steering and brakes...has any one added them?

Kevin M

[Peter in Wisconsin]

Originally Posted by firestopin

I have a 1991 PM-2 and the manual says that there should be bungies on the rear landing gear. I just have pins that lock them solid. It says that it is for a cross wind landing to prevent tipping...any thoughts?

I also have the HI pro chute but the risers are set up like the standand. That how it came and it flys great. Any one else running the samething?

Lastly, Steering and brakes...has any one added them?

Kevin M

Kevin,
My PM-2 is 1989 vintage. It has the bungies but they are locked in place so they are not functional. The guy I bought mine from strongly warned me NOT to unlock the bungees to make them functional. This is working for me so far.

I rigged my HiPro chute per the manual... and it's working fine.

I have no brakes or alternative steering mechanism. If it ain't broke don't fix it is my motto.

[woodyking]

Kevin, if you go to the files on Powerchutes, you can see some pictures of the steering and brakes I made for the Paraplanes. Works great, and makes for much better chute control because you can ground steer and chute steer separately, like most any other plane built nowadays. I used a friction on the tire setup, and it works a thousand times better than none at all. If you want more detail, I'll send you some.
Your attachment points are based on weight, the rear for a light weight from 150 to 180 lbs, the front holes for heavier pilots. With the HiPro, you should be in the Front holes. There should be a label there explaining this.
The bungies on the rear wheels were a good plan, but not really needed. It was to let the rear go sideways if necessary before tipping the cart. They were set tight, and it took a lot to move them. They were deleted around 89.
If you move the steering, it's a simple thing to move the throttle also, put it on the same pivot, but opposite side, and then you have side by side levers for everything, plus it makes everything right where it's comfortable. You'll see this on some of the pictures. The last one I did, I set it up on a sliding clamp type bracket, where it can be moved forward/rearward to suit the pilot. The tie rod ends are lawn mower types from Lowes.
Good luck, Woody

[Peter in Wisconsin]

Woody,
I'd be interested in more detail on your Paraplane modifications you did for breaks, throttle and steering. Also, I'd appreciate if you could point me to the files at Powerchutes.com---I couldn't seem to locate them.

Regards,

Peter in Wisconsin

Originally Posted by woodyking

Kevin, if you go to the files on Powerchutes, you can see some pictures of the steering and brakes I made for the Paraplanes. Works great, and makes for much better chute control because you can ground steer and chute steer separately, like most any other plane built nowadays. I used a friction on the tire setup, and it works a thousand times better than none at all. If you want more detail, I'll send you some.
Your attachment points are based on weight, the rear for a light weight from 150 to 180 lbs, the front holes for heavier pilots. With the HiPro, you should be in the Front holes. There should be a label there explaining this.
The bungies on the rear wheels were a good plan, but not really needed. It was to let the rear go sideways if necessary before tipping the cart. They were set tight, and it took a lot to move them. They were deleted around 89.
If you move the steering, it's a simple thing to move the throttle also, put it on the same pivot, but opposite side, and then you have side by side levers for everything, plus it makes everything right where it's comfortable. You'll see this on some of the pictures. The last one I did, I set it up on a sliding clamp type bracket, where it can be moved forward/rearward to suit the pilot. The tie rod ends are lawn mower types from Lowes.
Good luck, Woody